Good Views

Mondulkiri is a totally different experience from the rest of Cambodia. High up in rolling hills, with a constant, all-year-round breeze, it’s a destination which makes you feel on top of the world at the same time as well away from the madding crowds. More and more tourists are coming to Mondulkiri to take in the spectacular scenery, the beautiful waterfalls and hills, and the interesting hill tribes. Easily accessible from Phnom Penh, the province represents a wonderful getaway for a weekend, or longer if the unique attractions take your fancy.

A typical Monodlkiri view over the hills near the provincial capital, Sen Monorom.

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Getting there and around

Mondulkiri airstrip at the top of town has been closed since 2000; officials do not expect it to reopen in the near future. The easiest way to arrive is from Snuol. Buses come to Snuol directly from Kratie (around two hours) and Phnom Penh (around three hours) by bus; once there, it is straightforward to find a pick-up or taxi which can take you on the three-hour trip up to Sen Monorom, the provincial capital. The road is in generally good condition, and the second half is possibly one of the beautiful routes in Cambodia, climbing through the jungle and suddenly bursting out onto the top of the hills. Prices for all of these kinds of transport are very reasonable, and they can be arranged through guesthouses and hotels. It is relatively simple to make this journey by motorbike also possible, if you are interested in driving yourself. Getting around Mondulkiri involves hiring motorbikes (currently only small), jeeps or pick-ups, all possible through your accommodation, with or without driver. Think about US$40 per day for chartering a vehicle (more in the wet season), depending on times and distances, and around US$5-7 per day for a motorbike without driver. You can also hire bikes cheaply. The town itself is tiny, and easy to get around: there are plenty of signs advertising transport.

Sights Again, waterfalls are a big attraction here: Bou Sraa Waterfall is famous throughout Cambodia, rightly so, and the road to get there is much improved on the past, taking only around an hour. Other waterfalls include Romanear, Romanear II, Dak Dam and Monorom Falls. Treks out into the countryside visiting ethnic minority villages are popular here. They are generally longer and more arduous than in Ratanakiri province, and some include elephant riding (three days on an elephant is arduous indeed!). Take an organized tour with a local guide: barging into minority villages without sensitivity is not recommended. Arrange all trips or ask advice from your guesthouse. Otherwise, it’s a pleasure simply to ride around the countryside, taking in one spectacular view after another; climb Phnom Doh Gromom (Bridal Breast Mountain!) to watch the sunset.

Accommodation, food Most accommodation is budget to medium level in price and quality; more is opening all the time. Don’t forget to get hot water, as the nights can be extremely cold up here compared with the rest of Cambodia. There are some good Khmer restaurants in town with English menus, and a tiny Western bar has opened on the main strip, offering refreshment and trips.